Citysearch Editorial Review.
Zentan is the brainchild of Hong-Kong native chef Susur Lee, and it shows off not only his culinary skill, but also his worldly urban flair; he opened two side-by-side restaurants in Toronto, and is based at The Donovan's sister hotel in Manhattan. In addition to an outstanding sushi and sashimi selection, the nicely pithy menu offers plenty of fully cooked fusion entrées for vegetarians and the sushi-shy. A respectable wine list features sakes which read like a shelf of romance novels: Wandering Poet, Voices in the Mist, and Moon on the Water. Hoya-hoodied hotel guests give way to a midlevel professional crowd and under-35 foodie types, mixing with young couples in the late evening to wield chopsticks in the flickering candlelight.